Archive for the ‘Climbing Areas’ Category

Farewell Tour to the Waterfall Wall

Saturday, March 9th, 2013

Nothing is writ in stone yet, but with the extended forecast calling for mid-40 temps and my work schedule, today’s morning jaunt to the Waterfall Wall may well be the last of this season.

finalice01.jpg

I’ve been cussing this late snow-dump since it came, swamping paths and curtailing exploration as the season winds down. It has, however, provided a protective blanket that is preserving low-angle ice. The Waterfall Wall has decent ice…below a lot of snow. It’s more of a mountaineering route than ice route right now. I had to head to the Tempest variation in order to justify two tools, and there I found thoroughly sun-baked, rotten ice. I had to chop through 6 or 7 cm of ice to reach trustworthy material.

 finalice02.jpg

I did not bother going beyond the first pitch; it was totally swathed in snow. Both the uppermost pitch and Fifi’s are visible from the ridge, but I expect both are highly sun-baked. I wouldn’t recommend leading either one.

Hard telling how much longer it will last. I’m guessing it will be good through this weekend, but be out before the next.

I’ve been extremely lax about posting updates in the past two weeks. A lot went down, including a trip to Hoffman Notch with Jason Brechko, more FAs on Starbuck with the usual motley crew, and one more FA on Black Mountain with Todd Paris. I hope to post some “backlogs” on these.

ROCK SEASON IS COMING!!!

New Ice Area

Sunday, February 10th, 2013

newice01.jpg

Oh yeah.

(more…)

Three-Man Rush

Thursday, February 7th, 2013

Tom, Todd, and I headed far along Crane Mountain’s Southeast flank for a sending day. And send we did…

 todd_whiteshade2.jpg  (more…)

Northeast Cascade Condition

Wednesday, February 6th, 2013

The photo tells the story:

necascade01.jpg 

(more…)

Four for the Waterfall Wall

Tuesday, February 5th, 2013

shaun03.jpg 

Tuesday threatened to congeal into a busy day on Crane Mountain’s ice. (more…)

Alysia Takes a Swing

Tuesday, February 5th, 2013

Real short shout-out to Alysia and Jamie; they came out Sunday for Alysia’s first time ice climbing.  Jamie led the first pitch of the Waterfall Wall – only his second lead on ice – then set a TR for Alysia’s premiere go.

alysia.jpg
First sticks w’picks.

Alysia said she enjoyed the climbing, but it wasn’t worth enduring the cold. And it was cold. Frequent cloud cover hid what warmth the sun could supply, and a chill breeze guttered down Crane’s slopes occasionally. I suggested they come back some sunny, calm day toward the end of February for another go at it before Alysia renders a final verdict.

Jamie ran up and moved the rope over the Tempest variation, giving both of us a chance to sample some steep ice. Then, it was time to head toward warmth and a wood fire.

Keep your fingers crossed for another chance!

Chatiemac Ice Initiated

Saturday, February 2nd, 2013

Three of us made the long journey to the Chatiemac Cliffs today to scope out the ice situation.

chatiemac10.jpg 

(more…)

Waterfall Wall Recovery

Friday, February 1st, 2013

wwrecovery02.jpg

That didn’t take long.

(more…)

Romp up Providence AND Renegade SENT!

Tuesday, January 29th, 2013

Scott came up today, looking to get on some ice. He’s had a fair amount of time on fat stuff, so today I dragged him over to Providence for a bit of mixed action. Having never handled a cam before, this was bound to be an interesting excursion for us.

providence01.jpg 

(more…)

Icefest on the Waterfall Wall

Monday, January 28th, 2013

lukaszp1a.jpg
Lukasz rips up the first pitch

Seven of us meandered out to Crane Mountain’s Waterfall Wall for to poke at the ice Sunday. Among us was one relative newcomer and one absolute, never-ever. The weather was great, the climbing grand; this was the best climbing day I’ve had this year.

(more…)