Hot weather and swarms of deerflies have not deterred me from the goal of 100% climbing in July, but old age just might. One might hypothesize that climbing every day makes one incredibly strong. What I’m finding (OK, everyone told me this, I already knew) is that at some point, one starts going the other way. The body just can’t hold up under that sort of constant strain.
The stuff I’m doing isn’t helping matters. My focus since coming home has been on a project near Eatin’ Tripe & Lichen It that turns out to have some hard moves. It’s 5.8+ start seems easy enough now, as does the 5.9 layback following shortly thereafter. But the 5.10b moves after that – and the 5.8 face climbing above it – have yet to go without a hang. The 5.6 runout is OK, and the 5.9 roof is well-protected, but the 5.10a face above that is scary, and the pro is at my feet. In short, it’s a long, tortuous trip.
I threw a rope down Todd’s latest project last night. It starts out easily enough: nice face/slab moves to reach a good horizontal as things get steep. But right then and there the weather turns sour: either a no-feet traverse or a dynamic throw for side-pulls push things into 5.10 territory. They stay in that neighborhood the rest of the way: tips-crack laybacks and locks in some of the most painful crystalline rock I’ve ever encountered. It’s sort of like Gun Show, only harder. Ugh.
Gotta do some easier stuff!